How to travel Gibb River Road on Motorcycle?
About Gibb River Road
The 660km long Gibb River Road (GRR) in the far north of Western Australia is a journey to a vast almost unspoiled wilderness. Here the ancient gorges can tell you the story of the earth and the cattle stations the size of small countries remind you of how little places on this planet are left untouched by humans.
The road joins the town of Wyndham (or Kununurra closer to the Northern Territory border) in the east and the town of Derby in the west, and passes through the heart of the Kimberley region. It was constructed in the 1960s to transport cattle from the stations. Its name comes from the nearby running river (of course, duh!), named after geologist and explorer Andrew Gibb Maitland.
For many Australians, the road is a synonym for an ultimate off-road adventure into the wild, although over the years the road has become much more accessible, with some accommodation and even groceries available on the way.
Aboriginal people have lived in the region for thousands of years. The road crosses the traditional lands of many, including the Njikena, Bunuba, Ongkomi, Ngarinyin, Gedija, Worrorra and Wunumbal language groups.
When to go?
The road is accessible only in the dry season, typically from May to October. The later you go, the hotter it gets, which can be challenging when riding in full adventure gear.
However, if you go near the end of the season, you won’t have to worry much about the water crossings as most of them will be dry. The road should be also less busy, so you’ll be able to have a truly “alone in the vast wilderness” experience.
Another thing to keep in mind is that in the late season, some of the homesteads and stations may be already closed. We recommend asking about the latest updates at Derby or Kununurra Visitor Centres before heading out.
Road conditions
Lots of improvements have been done to the Road to make it more accessible and less dangerous. As of September 2021, the first 100km on the east and west ends of the road are sealed (as of late September 2021), steep hills are also sealed and there are concrete causeways or bridges on several river crossings. But don’t worry, there is still about 400km of dirt to ride on.
The western end of the Road from Derby to Mt.Barnett) seems to be usually in a better condition than the eastern section. The road conditions will vary depending on the weather, how heavy the previous wet season was, how many people travelled the road before you and in what vehicle.
The biggest challenges on the Gibb for you as a motorcycle rider can be river crossings, corrugation, bulldust, sand and crazy 4×4 drivers. The road is graded at the beginning of each season, and then it slowly degrades revealing teeth shattering corrugations sprinkled with a thin layer of sand or bulldust.
If you feel confident going fast enough to avoid most of the shaking caused by corrugation, then you should be fine. Just watch out for sand and bulldust patches when riding fast. And don’t forget to make sure your luggage is tightly attached and all the bolts on your bike are tight (blue Loctite is your friend!). We forgot to tighten some bolts and ended up one detached chain guard, one broken chain guard and one broken mirror.
For the river crossings, in general, expect higher water levels at the beginning of the season. Most of the river crossings without a concreate causeway will have a rocky surface. And yes, if there is a lot of water in the river, you need to watch out for crocs! 😉
What to prepare?
- There are limited fuel options along the Gibb. For small tank motorcycles this can be a problem, so you’ll likely have to carry some extra fuel. There is petrol at El Questro station (detour from the main road 17 km one way + water crossings), Mount Barnett and Drysdale River Station (detour from the main road, 60 km one way). Imintji Store has only diesel. Be ready to pay dearly for the petrol, even as much as $2 per liter.
- Water is available at homesteads and stations, but it’s always better to carry much more then you need in case of a breakdown. If you’re riding in full ADV gear you will sweat a lot as even in the dry season the weather can get very hot. We carried 9l each, and it was enough for about a day and a half (we used the water for cooking as well).
- Your best and budget friendly choice is to carry your own food. You can eat at the stations, buy some groceries at Mount Barnett Roadhouse, Gibb River Roadhouse (if it’s open) and at Imintji Store, but they can be very expensive due to the remoteness of the region.
- Entry fees apply for National and Conservation Parks along the Gibb. You can pay entry fee within the Park (exact cash amount only, $8 per motorcycle) or buy a National Parks Pass which allows you to visit unlimited number of WA Parks within a certain timeframe. The Pass needs to be purchased in advance online (and printed) or directly at one of the Western Australia Parks and Wildlife Service offices. If plan on going further north to Mitchell Falls, Kalumburu, Honeymoon Bay etc., you will need an Ngauwudu Road Zone Pass that needs to be purchased online before the start of your trip as there is no reception on the Gibb.
- There is paid accommodation available along the way from basic campgrounds to fancy glamping. However with our tight budget, we free camped all the way, finding nice camping spots with the help of WikiCamps, iOverlander and Maps.me.
What to see?
There is plenty of gorges, waterfalls, swimming holes and rock art to see and enjoy along the way. You can also visit and stay overnight at several cattle stations and Aboriginal communities to relax and learn about how people live and lived in this remote place. How much you want to see will depend on the time and money you have. Several spots require significant detours from the main road, so you need to take it into account when planning your fuel stops.
Here is a quick list of the most iconic sights along The Gibb: Windjana Gorge National Park, Tunnel Creek National Park, Lennard Gorge, Bell Gorge, Galvans Gorge, Manning Gorge, Mornington Wilderness Sanctuary, Imintji Community, Emma Gorge, Ellenbrae Station, Home Valley Station, and El Questro Wilderness Park.
If you’re up for a 500 km detour (250km one way) you can head north to Mitchell Falls and Kalumburu via Drysdale River Station. You can try riding even further all the way up to Honeymoon Bay, but we advise to seek more information about that area in advance as the road there can be very tough with limited fuel options, occasional sight closures and special permit requirements.
